Colombia El Diamante

Brew it as a pour-over, and the apple turns soft and honey red, with strawberry sweetness and a hint of mulling spice close behind. Run it as a batch brew, and that apple sharpens into tart Granny Smith. Either way, it tastes like early fall in a mug.

The producer, Oscar Osorio Henao, grew up among the coffee trees of Sonsón, spent eight years in Medellín, and always knew he’d come home. When he and his wife finally did, they dedicated themselves to the family farm, El Diamante.

This coffee highlights Oscar’s red honey process: cherries are carefully selected and floated, then ferment whole in open tanks for 120 hours. After depulping, the beans rest in baskets for 12 hours of oxidation and dry on sun beds for three to four weeks until they reach 11 percent moisture. That slow, patient red honey process is where the strawberry sweetness and the spice come from.